Rules – London, England

February 20, 2024

Rules is the oldest restaurant in London, opened in 1798 by Thomas Rule. Only three families owned the restaurant from its founding through 2022 when John Mayhew’s, sold it to Richard McMenemy. It specializes in “classic game cookery” and is an ideal stop if you want truly traditional British cuisine.

The dining room at Rules is classic with dark wood, red seats, and dozens of antlers mounted to the walls. The traditional fireplace has been modernized to gas, but not much else. The waiters wear formal attire and most of the diners get dressed up for the occasion.

The Rules Cocktail is a good place to begin. It is a refreshing combination Tanqueray, Dubonnet, and Champagne. They have one English wine on the list, Balfour Hush Heath Estate Liberty’s Bacchus. This white will likely remind you why the English are not famous for wine, but is still worth trying a glass. Their spirits list features fifteen gins including Isle of Harris Gin from Scotland and Sacred Christmas Pudding Gin, which is made in London and best enjoyed on the rocks.

Rules began as an oyster bar and still features oysters on the menu. Other first courses include the British classic Potted Shrimps, as well as soups, salads, and terrines. The Dorset Crab Salad is particularly excellent. The Spatchedcooked Spiced Quail is a more modern dish with Indian flavors. It is well seasoned and served with raita and dried apricot chutney.

Rules offers both a Steak and Kidney Pie and a Steak and Kidney Pudding. The difference, the waiter explained, is in the crust, but both are what Americans would describe as pies. The pudding is served with gravy and sharp yellow mustard. Although the kidneys might cause many to shy away from this traditional plate, the mustard makes for a spectacular dish.

Perhaps the most popular dish on the menu is the Roast Rib of Beef for two, served with yorkshire pudding and buttered greens. From mid-August to mid-December, Rules offers wild grouse with a warning that it may contain lead shot.

Two desserts that are always on the menu are the Sticky Toffee Pudding and the Golden Syrup Sponge. They are both surprisingly served with a scoop of cream cheese. And while the toffee pudding might be more traditional, the syrup sponge is superior, in large part because of the gravy boat of beautiful rich creme anglaise that was served with it.

There are many outstanding restaurants in London, but none of them have the history and tradition of Rules. This is a restaurant of a different time. The food is not at the level of many of the Michelin star restaurants found throughout the city, but the experience is unmatched. For that reason, Rules is a restaurant worth seeking out and worth returning to.

For more see our travel bites page.