Formaggio Kitchen suggested this New York goat’s milk cheese to me for part of my New Year’s Eve 2022 charcuterie board. The cheese gets its name from the town where Cochran Farm is located. The farm itself dates back to 1790 when the land was presented to General John Cochran in recognition of his service as Surgeon General of the Continental Army during the American Revolution. In 2014, after a five-year residence in France, Patrick and Gwen Apfel started Cochran Farm 1790, focusing on crafting goat cheese of the quality found there.
St. Johnsville is a bloomy rind cheese made from the milk of Mohawk Valley goats. It spends several weeks in their high-moisture aging room. It is incredibly creamy, tangy and bright with hints of grass, runny at the edges, more so as it ages, but firm at the core. We enjoyed it alongside pork rillettes and rabbit pate with a glass of Cabernet, but the cheesemakers recommend a Sancerre, Sauvignon Blanc or Chenin Blanc. Having a small amount left over, it was fantastic spread on a toasted baguette with caramelized onions New Year’s Day.
St. Johnsville is available in a 7.5 oz and a 4.5 oz round named “Jr.” The smaller of the two was $15.95 at Fromaggio. That’s more than $55 per pound, making this a pricy cheese, but its creamy richness makes it worth the cost. We really enjoy this cheese and though it can be difficult to source, recommend you try it if you come across some.
Cheese: Cochran Farm 1790, St. Johnsville
Country of Origin: USA, New York
Milk: Goat
Rating: 4/5
Concord Culinary Lyceum 